pHd | Philadelphia Hair Design

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At Home Hair 101: Mens' Directional Blow Dry

Calling all short hair friends!!!

Looking for a quick how-to on styling like a PRO? Want to understand what products to use and when to use them? You’ve come to the right place!

Step 1: Styling starts in the shower

My recommendation would be to have as much moisture in your hair as possible so that you can manipulate the natural pattern you hair would follow if it were to air dry on its own.

Step 2 : Apply all WET styling products before detangling your hair

A Leave in Conditioner is good to prime the hair. Redken One United would be a great option. 

It immediately provides hair with three important benefits - it helps detangle, protects hair color, and weightlessly controls frizz and flyaways. You only need three pumps!

Step 3: Prep your hair

Next, I recommend using a product that would help build foundation and volume to the style. Redken Brews Matte Paste is great for all hair types.

3 M’s : Medium Control, Matte Finish, Moisture.

The amount of product you use depends on the thickness of your hair. Stick to using no more than the following amount based on your hair type:

  • Fine hair - dime size

  • Medium hair - nickel size

  • Coarse hair - quarter size.

If you’re feeling fancy (going out on a Saturday night?), go for Redken Brews Instant Thickening Spray. Like the matte paste, this product helps increase the look of density and fullness in your hair. It also promotes a healthy scalp and prevents breakage by increasing overall hair strength. This product has some force to it when spraying it into the hair. I have found that spraying 2-3 pumps into my hand before applying it to my clients’ hair works best!

Before continuing, I get it, that sounds like a lot of product for SHORT hair. Each product has its own benefits and I promise they will not disappoint. Also, if used properly, they will each last you for AT LEAST 6 months. So you will totally get the return on investment. 

Step 4: Detangle

Guess what?!?! Time to DETANGLE. That's right, now would be the time to put a nice wide tooth comb to your hair which will help evenly distribute each product that has been layered into the hair. My recommendation would be to comb everything in the opposite direction of the end result. Meaning : If the end result is to style your hair away from your face, comb everything forward, then in the direction in which it will be blown dry. 

Step 5: Directional Blow dry

Time to blow dry! Don’t forget to attach the nozzle on the end of the blow dryer. This will help with power and controlling the direction of airflow. I call this A Directional Blow Dry because you want to do just that, blow dry the hair in the direction in which you want your hair to be styled. I prefer to use my hand because sometimes I find that I end up just beating myself up when I have a brush in my hand.

Step 6: Pomade, paste and hairspray

Once finished with the Directional Blow Dry, you might be ready to call it a day and use a hair spray because you might be happy with the end result. I get it, not everyone likes a lot of styling products in their hair and paste or pomades might not be your thing. If that's you, then just finish off the look with Redken TRIPLE PURE 32 and hit the road! Triple Pure 32 is fragrance FREE, high hold without crunch and you will still be able to run your hands through. 

If you like pomades and pastes, then my recommendation would be Redken Rough Paste 12. Great for all hair types, providing medium control and piecey texture without the hard/tacky feel.

Product usage :

  • Fine hair - dime size

  • Medium hair - penny size

  • Coarse hair - nickel size.

I LOVE to add Redken Powder Grip 03 to Rough Paste to help breakdown the paste and add VOLUME, TEXTURE, & DENSENESS to the end result.

Apply Rough Paste to hand, evenly distribute through palms of hands, then sprinkle powder Powder Grip into palms over top of the Rough Paste. Evenly apply throughout hair working from crown to hairline, finishing with remainder product on the back and sides of the hair. Finish off with some Triple Pure 32 and your style is ready to go with everlasting hold and volume!

Finished!

Once again, I get it, this sounds like a lot of products, but they each also have their own purpose and will not disappoint. Used properly, they will last a long time too!

Practice makes perfect, so don’t give up, you will get better each time you style your hair. I promise. I would love to see you end result! Take a photo and tag me on INSTA!

-Ryan 

@hairbyryanr


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